Who wouldn’t want to live here for a while (and ski down those mountains every day)?
Why you should do a ski season in Japan
I’ve written before about why I’d wanted to do a ski season in Japan for years before finally going for it last winter. There were two main reasons: snowboarding itself and Japanese culture. It was a chance to spend several months focusing on little else other than snowboarding in Japan’s world-renowned snow conditions (and maybe some work), and in doing so spend an extended period of time immersed in a country whose culture I’d had an obsession with since I was a child.
First, the snowboarding (or skiing, I’m a snowboarder but I tend to use them interchangeably as the same things apply): if you want to get good at something, you should practice it as often as you can, and every day if possible. We don’t get much snow in Ireland, and don’t have the mountains to make the most of it even when we do, so it’s something I’ve had to do in binges; when the opportunities have arisen, I’ve dived head first into it and just moved to the mountains.
Spending a winter in or near a ski resort gives you (in theory, and work dependent) access to the hill every day, and it’s a great way to not just get better at snowboarding (or skiing of course), but in doing so to really cultivate a deep love and understanding for the sport.
Like surfing (or any sport really), the life of a snowboarder or skier has its charm, culture, language and etiquette to learn. Aside from the rush of the sport itself, there’s also the setting: while surfers have their beaches, living in the mountains for a few months or more is an amazing experience in itself.
Doing a ski season is a great way to become immersed not just in the sport, but in mountain life in general. It’s got its own unique ways compared to other settings, and I’m not sure there’s even a comparable place in Ireland, which is basically just Dublin and ‘Down the Country’. There are hill and beaches for days, but they’re adjacent to farms, so you’re just a bogger with a view really. It’s hard to really and truly isolate yourself in Ireland.
I reckon everyone is either a mountain person or a beach person, and if you fancy a bit of adventure and action then moving to the mountains is something you should try once in your life.
Guide to doing a ski season in Japan
- Why you should do a ski season in Japan
- Why Japan?
- Do I need to be able to speak Japanese?
- Work and accommodation
- Advice on job searches
- Do I need a visa?
- Where should I spend a winter in Japan?
- General advice
Why Japan?
Japan is one of the most culturally rich and unique countries in the world. Many Westerners associate it with two things: incredibly beautiful and rich traditional culture, a land of temples, kimonos, dragons and samurai; and also for being the far-eastern land of sci-fi, ‘weirdness’ and culture shock. Although both are true in some capacity, in reality it’s just a modern and well-developed Asian country with rich contemporary and historical cultures.
Maybe it’s because I moved there from Hanoi, Vietnam, a genuinely culturally-shocking place to an Irish person, that I didn’t feel it as much, but really it felt more and more ‘normal’ every day I was there.
Although mostly familiar with the worlds of video games, anime and weird TV game shows, while there I became immersed in its rich and sometimes mind-blowing music scenes, for example, with futuristic jazz, techno, hip-hop and pop music scenes. The food is world famous and generally excellent, and the general conscientiousness and artefacts of traditional Japanese culture would bring a tear to your eye. These are just some of the reasons why I was happy just to get out of bed every morning while over there, and no matter what you’re into at home you’ll find a fascinating, and wonderfully-realised (often strangely-realised) expression of it in Japan.
There’s also the world-famous powdery snow, of course.
Although quite a ‘foreign’ country for westerners, it runs so well that it’s still fairly easy to navigate (and you wouldn’t be the first to try), and much of its ski industry is fuelled by foreigners from Australia, New Zealand, Europe and North America (especially Australia). Thus its entirely possible to get work and accommodation, and set yourself up in one of the many varied ski towns and resorts all over Japan.
Do I need to be able to speak Japanese?
Ideally you should be able to speak some Japanese when going to live there, though I didn’t. Much of the Japanese ski world caters to foreign tourists, and there are whole resorts, or parts of them, which feature Western-oriented accommodation, restaurants, bars and cafes. Hakuba (particularly Echoland – “so foreign they didn’t bother giving it a Japanese name”, my boss told me) and Niseko are probably your best bet in terms of looking for work if you only speak English. Both of them suffer culturally for their Western focus though, and you’ll get less of a ‘Japanese’ experience by living there (though it’s still hard to escape the fact that you’re in Japan, in fairness).
Resort jobs will tend to be for Japanese people and speakers only. I did come across some white-faced lift attendants in Tsugaike Kogen, but they were study-abroad students who could speak Japanese.
If you’re a qualified snowboard or ski instructor, it could also be possible to pick up casual work with English-speaking tourists and visitors. More on that below.
I worked in a guesthouse in Hakuba which catered to mostly American, Australian, Chinese and Taiwanese guests (the managers were from Taiwan and Hong Kong). A lot of bars and restaurants had English-speaking staff only.
Aside from work, I would definitely recommend you learn some Japanese if you come here – like, actually learn and maybe get to an intermediate level. Although you can get by in the ski resorts and major cities with none of the language, most locals don’t speak English and it can be a lonely experience travelling and living in the country, unable to communicate with people (and believe me, I like my alone time).
It was a world apart from the few years I spent in Vietnam, where English is widely spoken, and even if it isn’t, over there people are fascinated by your presence and go out of their way to demonstrate their endless hospitality. Japanese culture has a more western-style politeness about it, and people keep to themselves unless you approach them. Even then, they probably don’t speak English, may be embarrassed, or just may want to be left alone.
Obviously when you travel to any country, learning even a few words of the local language will improve your experience immeasurably. This is the case in Japan more than anywhere I’ve been, and I’d have loved to have been able to get more out of my time there by learning more than just hellos, thank yous, and pleasantries. It’s one of those things that any time you put into it will pay off, even if you’re just going for a couple of weeks.
Work and accommodation
Ski season jobs in Japan tend to be filled in advance, with everything organised and taken care of before the season starts. Employers also generally provide accommodation – usually shared rooms – either as a perk of the job or for a subsidised rate.
Other perks generally include ski passes, gear rentals and maybe even discounted beer if you work in a bar and have a sound boss. The wages in your hand at the end of the month would tend to be lower, of course, but you’re not going to save money there anyway. Finding private, affordable accommodation could be very difficult with such demand from tourists and other workers, especially if you don’t speak Japanese. Finding work at the start of winter in such a situation would typically prove to be more hassle than it’s worth too.
It’s possible to ‘rock up’ and start knocking on doors and handing out CV’s, though it’s probably safer to organise everything in advance, as most jobs will be filled by the start of the winter (especially if you don’t speak Japanese).
As in much of life, knowing someone who’s worked a season and getting a contact or referral from them would be ideal. In the absence of this, however, the internet will most likely be your friend to secure a job in advance.
Online job postings
I found my job (and several others) on the Workaway website. Workaway is a volunteer exchange site, though I found there to be quite a few ski jobs advertised, mainly in guesthouses, while some were private family arrangements like child minding. There were also quite a few paid jobs in restaurants and bars advertised here.
There are also forums like Snow Japan which have dedicated job forums.
There’s also Season to Season.
Ski Japan is a package holiday company who may have jobs available.
Googling ‘ski season Japan jobs’ could always reveal something as well.
Direct contact with businesses
As in ‘real life’, I would suggest contacting businesses directly, rather than putting your faceless CV on a pile with all the other goms. With a bit of research through facebook and Google, you should be able to find the names of businesses in the area you’re looking for (a lot of them show up on Google Maps!). Reaching out to them directly could be your best way to get an ‘in’ for the coming winter. Try bars, restaurants, rental shops, cafes, guesthouses, hotels, tour and ski instruction companies, and so on.
Advice on Job Searches
Ski jobs tend to be in high demand, and there’s often a high turnover due to the nature of them. They’re generally low-paid (if they’re paid at all) and often your comfort is not your employer’s priority in terms of working hours, accommodation and time to ski on the hill (which is what you’re there for). There are good deals and bad deals, and over the years I’ve accepted both. Just be wary of being taken advantage of (it works both ways for employers in fairness). Do your research, ask your potential employer questions and don’t accept the first job you’re offered.
Things to look out for:
- What’s the pay (and benefits)? Minimum wage is fine for you, you shouldn’t have to accept ‘payment in kind’ in lieu of actual cash (pretty sure it’s illegal in Japan anyway). As well as actual cash, workplaces usually provide ski passes (these are often shared between staff), accommodation, gear rental and meals (if it’s a food service place).
- What’s the accommodation situation? You’ll most likely be sharing a room (acceptable), the question is with how many people? Grill your employer on this, as I’ve come across horror stories of twelve-to-an-attic sleeping arrangements. Also, do you have to pay for accommodation yourself or is it provided? Is it close to work and the ski hill or is it in another town from where you’ll be working (anything more than a five minute commute becomes an ordeal in a ski town and you can most likely do better).
- What are the working hours? This is crucial, and for many people should be the deciding factor. You’re there to snowboard. An ideal job will be evening work like in a bar or restaurant, with at least a day off (it’s rare to get more than one in a ski town, though it is of course possible). If this isn’t feasible a good workplace will rotate shifts between staff and allow you to ski at least for a couple of hours most days. Ask.
It’s up to you what your priorities are but for most people it’ll be ski, then everything else. Employers know this and so a good place to work will be up front and provide a lot of the benefits outlined above. A lot depends on the demands of the job, and for many just being able to ski a couple of times a week is enough for them. Just keep these things in mind to minimise the chances of ending up in a shitty work situation, without even the chance to snowboard your troubles away.
Do I need a visa?
You’ll need to be legally able to work in Japan if you plan on getting a job there.
When you get to looking for a job, you will find that most place require you to have a working holiday visa (or some other kind that allows you to legally work in Japan while you’re there. It’s the law, and I found that even places that weren’t offering cash payment looked for visas from potential workers. It seems it’s just safer for them, though I did meet people who were working ‘cash in hand’ so to speak at various places.
Have a look here for visa requirements, and to see if your country is eligible.
Eligible countries include Australia, New Zealand, Canada, the Republic of Korea, the United Kingdom, Ireland, Denmark, Norway, Portugal, Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, Spain, Argentina, Chile, Iceland, Czech or Lithuania (note I don’t see the USA there – maybe check if there are specific arrangements for you guys).
You also must be aged 18 to 30 when you apply. Like me you can apply before your 31st birthday. You’ll then have up to a year to enter the country, from which point you’ll have a year to spend from your date of entry to Japan (this is similar to working holiday visas for any other country).
Check your own country’s embassy for specific requirements, though I think any of the above named countries would be similar to Ireland.
You’ll also need proof for funds for your trip when you apply for the visa – not when you arrive in the country, funnily. It’s around USD$3,000, or its equivalent.
The visa is free in Ireland, I think it’s the same everywhere else too.
The procedure is fairly simple. Download and complete the forms for your country, make an appointment at the Embassy of Japan, submit forms with your passport and photos, wait ten days, and collect your passport again with the visa attached inside.
I landed at Narita Airport outside of Tokyo and was directed to a separate desk to regular tourists. I had to wait about 15 minutes with one other traveller, was ushered into an office where the officials promptly took my photo and printed my shiny little resident’s card, and then I was good to go, free to live in Japan for the year.
You’re free to leave the country and return during your stay, though you’ll have to fill out a special form at customs before departure. It’s quite straightforward. Otherwise they’ll ask for your card to punch a hole in it so you can’t come back in.
Where should I spend a winter in Japan?
That’s up to you. I went where the work took me. If you don’t speak Japanese then you may find that the majority of suitable jobs (i.e. ones dealing almost entirely with English-speaking or other foreign guests) are in the biggest resorts, namely Niseko in Hokkaido or Hakuba in Honshu. Nozawa Onsen also has quite a number of foreigner-friendly businesses, and I came across quite a few jobs there.
Otherwise it depends on your own priorities: which mountain you want to ride, which region you want to spend time in, or which town has the vibe you’re looking for.
Have a look at my overview of skiing in Japan here.
Here are my guides to some of the different towns and resorts in Hokkaido and Honshu. They might help you make your mind up about where suits you best to ski in Japan.
General advice
It’s not all fun and games, and it’s important to remember a few things before you pack your bags and hop on the next plane to Japan. Here’s a few tips on what to expect:
Japan
Japan is an amazing country, and ideally your trip won’t begin and end in winter. Depending where you are and what your job and housing situation is, it can be difficult during the winter to get properly immersed in Japanese culture and even to meet Japanese people. This happened to me working in the Echoland area of Hakuba. This may be something to keep in mind when choosing where to base yourself or accepting a job offer.
If you don’t speak Japanese I’d also recommend learning as much Japanese as you can before you go. This will help massively, not just with getting things done and meeting Japanese people, but also for your appreciation of your host country. It’s the same anywhere. Every word you learn and minute you spend trying to learn the language, no matter how bad your attempts are, is worth twice what you put in.
Enjoy Japan while you’re there. There’s so much amazing traditional and modern culture to explore, so many beautiful places to food, amazing food to try and savour, interesting nightlife and museums and attractions, and most of all, wonderfully kind and interesting people. It’s one of the most interesting countries you could visit, so do try to see as much as you can!
Winter is coming
Winters in snowy places are long, and the days are short. There aren’t many opportunities to get away from work and skiing , and claustrophobia and cabin fever definitely set in. Not to be dramatic, but in my experience many people tend to go a bit mad in such conditions.
As much as doing a ski season will be one of the best experiences of your life, and hopefully foster a lifelong love of skiing or snowboarding in you, it’s hard going at times. The cold weather, abundance of snow and ice, lengthy darkness, masses of passing tourists and confined spaces mean that the days start blending into one another. When you’re sharing your accommodation and room with other people it’s also very difficult to find some personal space. Just be prepared that it’s not all fun and games and you’ll really need to take care of your mental health.
This is especially true when you take into account the fact that drinking is a big part of ski culture all over the world, ski resorts and towns are full of bars and people on holidays, and most skiers are pissheads anyway. Do remember to take breaks from the pub and combini cans of chu-hai. A winter season is a marathon, unlike the sprint of a week-long holiday. You won’t survive with the same mentality. Mind yourself (and remember that a beer at 1,500m is worth two or more at sea level)!
You’ll probably feel like you need to be rushing to the ski hill every available hour of every day, but remember to take days off. No matter how fit or ski-fit you are, going to the mountain is exhausting for your body, especially when by definition you’re exposing yourself to altitude and sub-zero temperatures every day.
I highly recommend regular trips to the onsen for some rest and relaxation. Also remember to feed yourself well. Even though it might look like the Japanese all live to 85 eating Koka noodles and fried chicken from the 7/11, their diet is generally incredibly healthy. Make sure to get into a routine of decent home-cooked meals. Take supplements if you need to. Remember, you won’t see the sun for days at a time, perhaps even weeks.
Money
Just in case you were under any illusions, you won’t make any money working in a ski resort. If you do get a well-paid job, you’ll spend it in the pub. If you don’t spend it in the pub, you’ll buy yourself a fancy Burton AK jacket and a shit-hot board set-up for next year in the end of season sales. Or a GoPro that you’ll use twice. You will. Don’t @ me.
On a serious note (though I was being serious) bring enough to survive and to find your feet while you’re settling in. Some set-up costs can include:
- Skis/board set-up, including bindings and boots, if you don’t own your own. Even if your job is offering you free stuff, there’s every chance there won’t be enough to go around/they won’t have your size/it’ll be damaged/some other manifestation of Murphy’s Law.
- Warm clothes: if you’re not from a properly cold country, i.e. you’re Irish or British, there’s a good chance your cold weather or ski clothes are not good enough to sustain regular drops to minus 20 celsius and below. You might have to get suitable gear when you land. Things like snow boots, which you’ve never thought of before, help massively with getting around town. Proper gloves, hats, thermal socks and vests are all essential. Having good gear is like sleep: you might be ‘fine’ if you skip it in the short term, but over a few months it’ll really wear you down if you’re not taking care of yourself. TK Maxx is great for cheap (and often stylish) gear. Look for ski gear that’s waterproof to 10,000mm. And layering up is better than bulking up when it comes to clothes.
- Phones: if you want to get a local sim card and phone plan in Japan, you may need to bring your birth cert and a sample of your blood, even for pre-paid sims. I didn’t bother and it was mostly fine, making phone calls and contacting people usually with Wi-Fi and so on. Have a look here for some details on getting a phone in Japan.
Ride safely
Snowboarding and skiing are dangerous pursuits. And I don’t mean you’ll get a sore arse from falling over as you leaf down the bunny slope (though I’ve seen people break their tailbones, learn to fall on your back). Japan is famous for its powder, which is best found off-piste. Deep snow is dangerous, and avalanches are real. Weather conditions tend to be extreme, visibility poor, and the obstacles are many. Know the risks and take care of yourself.
Learn from people who are better and more experienced than you.
Get avalanche training if you can, and bring proper gear if you’re planning to go into the back-country.
Watch out for trees, and any other obstacles that might find you, particularly off-piste.
In many Japanese resorts it’s illegal to duck the ropes and go off-piste. Try not to get lost if you do, and if you have to unstrap or take your skis off to get back, watch out for the depth of the snow.
Be respectful of others on the hill, no matter what their skill level is. Remember: it’s always your responsibility to look out for and safely avoid those downhill from you.
If you’re going off-piste, don’t go alone. Always bring someone with you, and keep tabs on each other.
Conclusion
If you’ve made it this far you’ve probably made your mind up already, or are at least fantasising about quitting your job, packing your bags and moving to Japan next November. Unless you’re considering abandoning your kids I’d say go for it and you won’t regret it. A ski season is an amazing way to travel, and by actually moving to and working in a country you get a much better feel for it than you ever would just in passing.
Snowboarding and skiing aren’t just sports or adrenaline rushes. Ski life is a way of life, and you’ll meet some great people if you immerse yourself in its world. Most people I know who’ve tried them wish they could do more, especially if you’re Irish and you it’s expensive and time-consuming to organise even an annual trip. Spending a few months dedicated to learning any activity is a great way to not only get better at it, but also to fully immerse yourself in a different, dedicated and even obsessive way of life. The unique opportunity to live in the mountains for a while is another draw of the life of ski bum; being in the mountains has a unique mix of absolute peace and daily adventure. Busier resorts tend to be fun (often too much fun) but it’s also possible to get away from it all in quieter environments; it’s up to you.
So why not go for it?
Sure you might never come back.
If you’ve any other questions or there’s anything else you’d like to read or know more about, drop me a message!